Sunday, March 21, 2010

in Just- spring (onions)

I don't really like it, but I have to in the play because I'm a scallion.
C.J.

in Just- spring when the world is mudluscious some of the best onions begin to sprout from their bulbs and the chefs come dancing in from

far and wee

to use them in creations for us all to enjoy. They are all members of the perennial flowering family Alliaceae, genus allium, which includes onions, garlic, shallots, leeks and chives. The scallion seems to have originated in the Philistine town of Ascalon, modern day Ashkelon in Israel, written about as the askolonion by the Greek botanist and disciple of Plato and Aristotle, Theophrastus. In the Carolinas and up the Appalachians, we are blessed with wonderful wild ramps, their purple-tinged stalks, broad green leaves and garlicky pungency for robust flavor during the short spring season. There is a scallion/shallot controversy/parapraxis: I contend in the stage where the cook is not discerning any sprouted onion will do, then he will often say scallion meaning “green onion“, though there are many wonderful varieties and nuances among the plethora of magical shoots; when looking for a sweeter, milder, light purplish onion bulb, then you want. a shallot. Another great onion whose reputation for sprouted spring flavor is the sweet Vidalia onion from Georgia; some say the flavor is so mild it can be eaten like fruit so enjoy its tang in dishes that relish sweetness. A popular variety of spring onion in Europe, the “Welsh” onion, known as the ciboulette in French and the Schnittzwiebel in Germany, isn’t Welsh but actually derives from the Old English welisc or Old German welsche which both mean “foreign”. This onion ranges in size from large chives to small leeks and can grow to have a golden puff of a flower on top. Leeks, as most often devoured, generally mature after spring and form more of a sheath than a bulb - which I find more onionesque, bub.
“Russians will consume marinated mushrooms and vodka, salted herring and vodka, smoked salmon and vodka, salami and vodka, caviar on brown bread and vodka, pickled cucumbers and vodka, cold tongue and vodka, red beet salad and vodka, scallions and vodka-anything and everything and vodka.” Hedrick Smith

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